Monday, June 6, 2011

Simple braised beef shank

The plentiful and cheap shank is sadly foreign to most dinner tables. It's a cut for braising, and little else. I'm very familiar with the shank. It's a collagen rich group of muscles responsible for supporting the animals weight and balance. It's comprised of long sinews and isolated muscles connecting the hoof to the anchors in the knee. Because of the constant work and blood flow, this meats develops lots of robust beefy flavor. In ANY kitchen that is practicing whole animal utilization you must find a use for these cuts. This meat isn't even good for grinding.

Ok, let's get to the meat of this article. The cut I'm working with is a cross-cut shank from Bastrop Cattle company. It's local to me and 100% grass-fed. I paid only $4 for this cut. I'm making a dinner for 2 two, and I wanted to prepare this as simply as I could. I bought veggies at the Barton Creek farmers market; red potatoes, red onion, green beans. Total of 8 dollars. Everything else was in the pantry. You can substitute anything you like. Water for stock or carrots for green beans. It's just a good idea to keep in mind your going to cook this for several hours. So pick roots or add more delicate ingredients later in the process. What ever you do just have fun with it. Be sure to have good methods in the kitchen. Mis En Plas is a french term that means "everything in it's place". Do all you prep before you start, and clean up before you start preparing your meal. This is a professional approach to working in the kitchen. 

There's always a little debate about the effects of searing meats. Regardless of any of that mess, I can tell you one thing searing does. It lets you build flavors. I've started off with some homemade rendered lard we make at Salt & Time. Once the lard is hot add 1 tablespoon or 3-4 if you like more garlic. Sauté the garlic over medium heat. Just till translucent, and then remove garlic from pan and reserve.

Salt the meat 5-10 minutes before cooking. Just before putting the beef in the stock pot turn the heat up 1/4. Then put the largest surface down first. This will help keep the meat from distorting under heat. Making it harder to keep contact for the searing of the other side. Shanks can have more or less meat on them depending one where it comes off the shank. So look at the cut you buy closely cause sometimes there's less meat and more bone. 

Sear at medium-high heat for 5 minutes. Then flip and repeat. Take note of the brown bits left behind. This is known as "fond" and it's all flavor. Leave it alone, it's going to turn loose before to long.
 Once your shank has got a good hard crust on both sides, remove from the pan.  Add the shank back to the pot. 

At this point I add back the garlic and 3 cups of diced onion. Add salt and fresh cracked pepper. Cook till onion begins to caramelizes. Add enough COLD water to the pot to cover 1/2 of the shank.  I'm adding some Worchershire sauce, 1/4 cup worth. Two points I'd like to make here.


If you not using pre-made stock here's two tricks to still have a rich braising liquid. Always use cold water preferably filtered and from the fridge. Cold water, instead of hot or tap, will slow down the cooking process and lets a richer flavor develop. Worchershire sauce is great with red meats and helps add more flavor, easily. Bring the liquid to temp, not quite boiling.
 I'm adding the potatoes and green beans and moving to a pre-heated oven (at 300 degrees). Put on a lid and cook for 2 hours. Go do something for a while. Your house should be smelling amazing at this point. I like to plan this to happen when your dinner quest is arriving. You get some nice responses and can chat a bit. Meanwhile make a simple roux for the sauce later. Start this about half way through the braise. In a small cast iron skillet on low heat, combine 1 table spoon of flour with 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter. A roux is simple to make and is something you should be comfortable with making. No lessons here just be sure to get the mixture free of lumps. Don't worry about color for this use. 


Two hours in check for doneness. Remove shank, potatoes, and green beans. Move pot to the stove, fire the burner to high. Add 1 cup dry red wine and reduce the liquid by half. I've added fresh parsley and fresh thyme. Add the roux you made and stir in slowly. Let this thicken for 2 minutes over heat the turn off burner. This will be your sauce so season to taste. 

If your lucky like me there was a small bit of marrow left in the bone. Slurping out the rich marrow is the best way to start this meal. The veggies are tender and full of flavor. The meat is also extremely tender almost gelatinous. Eating collagen rich food with give you health benefits too. Look it up. So a meal once a week of grass-fed beef is a good idea. A meal containing collagen rich grass-fed beef is a great idea. Hope you like this recipe. Shanks!

Friday, June 3, 2011

Round two--Nawlin's

So this was my second trip down to the Crescent city. The first time was three years after Katrina, and even though the city was getting back on its feet they still had a way to go. That said my girlfriend and I had a great time. Even after a disappointing trip to Emeril's restaurant Delmonico. This time is was just the boys. The Salt and Time crew. That just amounted to more drinking, not late nights per say. Just copious amounts of booze, hooch, liqueur, whatever we drank it.


 We also got around to some great food in Nawlins. We stopped in on our friend Morgan Weber at his market, Revival Market, in Houston. Had a great B.L.T & very excellent asian coleslaw. I couldn't get enough of the slaw. BLT was great. Made with house bacon that was perfection. Passing though Lake Charles I always have to stop at Steamboat bill's for the Boudin Balls. Not as great as i remember but still good. The surprise goodie was the pistolettes stuffed with etouffee--crazy good. Chased it down with 5 pounds of boiled mudbugs, and several beers.
The next day we got into Nawlins, and went right to Cafe du Monde for beignets and coffee. This was pretty much every morning. Went mixed it up between Cafe Beignets and cafe du monde. Last day i pass on the beignets for croissant breaky sandwich, wise choice. I will say one thing about breakfast in Nola. Really good coffee is hard to find. Im not against chicory, I like it. It just got old. We did seek out some better coffee options down Magazine st.
Lunch was easy both days. First stop was Cochon butcher shop. My 2nd trip. I love this shop. I went for there salami sandwich and was very pleased. Also the first of many La 31 Beere pale--excellent brew.

We got to meet Steve Stryjewski this year James Beard winning chef for the south. http://www.nola.com/dining/index.ssf/2011/05/cochon_chef_stephen_stryjewski.html
Very nice, jovial guy who treated us very well for us cold calling. We talked about dry curing a bit and about Cochon 555. We made reservations for Cochon dinning room for diner. Sadly i took no pictures, but i can tell you we ate a good section of the menu between 5 people. I was one of the best meals of my life. So many great items; fried alligator, meat pie, rabbit dumpling, smoke ham hock over beans and rice. All was fantastic. Do not miss this place if your in New Orleans.
Second day we headed for the classic Po'boy. Domilises was the objective, after having a hard time getting there it was closed. So we headed to Liuzza's by the track, not a bad back-up. Cause I got my Po'boy. Fried green tomato topped with sauteed shrimp, OMG. I also enjoyed a nice bowl of gumbo too. They also surprised me by serving beer in frosty fish bowl beer goblets. In Texas we call them Big O's, and we fill them with cheap light beer. Not sure if big o's are common in Louisiana, it was the one and only time I saw them. Liuzza's had a really great vibe and is a guaranteed return visit in the future. 



We had dinner at Felix's Oyster bar on bourbon st. It was ok. I had turtle soup and fried calimari. The chargrilled oysters were defiantly worth getting. Chargrilled oysters are severed all over in Nawlin's. We had them a Dragos the first time here and they were better than at Felix's. I'm sad to report Oysters Rockefeller have dodged me once again.

We had a light lunch (I had to judge food later) at a tapas bar we found out of the quarter down Magazine street. I went super easy with Pimenton crudo. Good flavor, simple. I was really jealous of the chargrilled burgers that made it to the other 2 place mats. Some sort of chorizo burger with amazing texture, almost like it wasn't ground. To quote the other guys, reaction. It was served with Yucca root fries. These I did try these and I'm defiantly going to make at home soon. Great texture and taste.

I'm saving my finale, food at Cochon 555, for another post. Cheers!

Been a minute

So i have found keeping a blog to be somewhat time consuming, but folks always wanna hear these stories. I doubt if i will ever time to keep this going consistently, then again i should just make time.

Well last week was the Cochon 555 in New Orleans. Getting to compete in butchery is a new thing for me. It was lot's of fun. I was also a judge for the chef portion of the event, the real reason why Cochon 555 exists. Well that and supporting heritage breeds of pig. Right up my alley.



We had 40 minutes to breakdown a half pig + 20 minutes for a head. They gave us a cut list and turned us lose. In most of the Cochon 555 the butcher's, two of them, competed head-to-head. For whatever reason we didn't do it this way in Nola. I was judging food when Glenn Mistich was cutting. I didn't even get to watch. It's my understanding he had some problems, and didn't even touch the head. That's unfortunate since Glenn is a very respectable shop owner and butcher, but these things happen. 
I on the other hand was primed and ready to be turned lose on a whole pig and show the crowd what "seam butchery" looks like. In just the few minutes I had the crowd oooing and ahhing. Seam butchery is visually more exciting, almost like Tai Chi at times. Flipping the ham over for the break, then the shoulder. You get a loud crack, and people really got interested. Most people get surprised how little i need a saw or even a clever. I was happy with my product. Damn the 40 minutes just flew by.


 Sorry these are blurry. I was moving too fast.



The cut list was pretty basic, no curve balls.

Then got 20 minutes with the head. I'll be truthful, I did some deliberate practice runs with this one. I knew it was "freestyle". So I had a plan to make it the same way we do in the shop for our porchetta de testa. The first time it took me 30 minutes i'd say. Once i learned all the curves around the skull it went much quicker. Last practice run i had it deboned in 8 minutes and tied in 2 more. Not sure how long it took in the contest, but it was fast. I held the freshly peeled face up for the crowd, and they cheer. Some guy yells out "put it on!". I said "No way. Im wearing enough pork already". 





To see more of Cochon 555 checkout the web page http://www.cochon555.com/menu/photos/